After Makara Sankranthi, in Kerala, a festive vibe erupts in the form of Purams or annual temple festivals. It is also interesting to note that this is not limited to the Hindu temples, but also quite a few churches that celebrate their Pirannal or birthdays. Driving through the side-roads is an experience to celebrate the vibrant decorations, the DJ powered music (this too exists), Chenda Melam & of course, panchavaadhyam.
This time of the year also happens to be the time of Bharani or Puram of Bhagwathis, one of which is close to my paternal ancestral home. When the date was decided to be January 26, I planned to make the most of the opportunity by travelling early and trying to discover and understand the antiquity of some of these kshetrams. As a new found self-motivated objective, I wish to travel and discover these Divya Deshams and Padal Petra Sthalams across the country or beyond. As part of this endeavour, I zeroed in a few kshetras that are relatively near-by to my ancestral place and this blog post is related to the same.
Thirunavaya
My first memory is of my father mentioning this place in 1994 when my grandmother left her mortal coils. I always used to hear about this kshetra in the family as a place to perform the final rites or Bali as it is called locally. When I searched for Divya Desham in Kerala, I was surprised to learn about this place and became my first destination in this sojourn.
Thirunavaya is on the banks of Bharathapuzha river, considered as one of the holiest of holy rivers in India. Located in Malappuram district, this kshetra is the melting point of current Kerala in the form of Kerala’s Kumbh Mela i.e. Maha Magam 2026 (more on this below).
(Pic Courtesy: Wiki)
The main deity is Navamukunda Perumal who is really mesmerising to look at. Very uniquely, there is a separate temple for Lakshmi next to the main shrine. Legend has it that Gajendra and Lakshmi were offering Lotus flowers to Narayana. Apparently, Lakshmi took away all of Gajendra’s flowers. Narayana appeared before them and recommended that Lakshmi take a separate shrine next to him and accept all lotus flowers offered to Narayana. The lotus flowers are left to Gajendra for him to offer to Narayana.
Main Deity: Nava Mukunda
Thayar: Malarmangai Nachiyar
Mamangam / Mahamagam 2026
This year saw the revival of the ancient practice of Mamangam, a once in 12 year old event. Touted as the Kumbh Mela of South India, this is attracting devotees in large numbers. It was purely coincidental or rather a providence that I decided to visit this place during this unique time of our lives. Taking a dip in Bharathapuzha and offering Jala Tarpana to my ancestors, forefathers, gurus, devatas and some friends who have shed their mortal coil, it was a simple and serene experience. They have created a wonderful Homa enclosure and also the famous Ganga Aarati has been setup which has become the main attraction. Since I was planning on visiting more kshetras the same day, I didn’t go for a priest guided Tarpana, but I do believe this facility is also available.
After the ceremonial bath in the river, on the route to the temple, there is a stage for cultural programmes. Except for the fact that the rush is huge, the overall setup is absolutely wonderful. If anyone is reading this blog before February 3, please do make an attempt to be part of this very unique event and soak in the experience.
More details: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mamankam
Thirumetticode / Thiruviththuvakkōdu
This is another temple that I have often heard in the context of Bali. When I was searching for Divya Deshams near my ancestral place, I found this also to be listed amongst the 108 Divya Desham. Located in Palakkad district, this temple is very unique in many forms and has many legends associated with the same. This temple also features as one of the 108 Shivalayams of Kerala (Shiva Kshetras established by Parashurama). This kshetra is also located on the banks of Bharathapuzha.
The first part of history dates back to Dwapara Yuga, wherein Pandavas visited this kshetra and established Maha Vishnu moorthis. Even to this day, we can find 4 idols for Mahavishnu out of which the one consecrated by Arjuna is considered as the main deity i.e. Abhayapradha Perumal or Uyyavandha Perumal. There are separate shrines one each for the idols consecrated by Dharmaraya (Yudhishtira), Bheema and one for Nakula-Sahadeva together. Each one of these is really mesmerising to look at. Even in the darkest light (it was almost closing time), we could savour the bliss of the divine idols.
(Pic Courtesy: Wiki)
The second part of the history is related to the unique Kasi Vishwanathan lingam worshipped in this kshetra. It is believed that a Brahmana travelled from this place to Kashi to have darshana of Vishwanatha. He has a revelation about his mother’s declining health and gets worried. It is said that Kashi Vishwanatha himself consoled him and said that he would join him in this journey. Ensconcing himself on the top of the umbrella, he travels to Thirumetticode. When the Brahmana places his umbrella on a Balikallu to have a bath and freshen up, Kashi Vishwanatha positioned himself on the Balikallu. The Balikallu immediately severs off into 4 pieces and plunged into the river, out of which a Jyotirlinga emerges. Since this is a Swayambhu, this place is also considered as Dakshina Kashi. The part of the river where the Balikallu severed off and fell into is considered as Chakra Teertha, whose waters are considered to be as holy as Ganga maata.
Since there are 5 main deities in this temple (4 Vishnu and 1 Shiva), this place is also called Anchumoorthi i.e. Anju (5) + Moorthi (idol) kshetra.
Main Deity: Abhayapradha Perumal or Uyyavandha Perumal
Thaayar: Vithuvakoduvalli
Thiruvanchikulam
This is beautiful temple located just 2.6 kms away from Kodungalur kshetra. Kodungalur is very famous for the very divine Bhadrakali form of the the divine mother. We first had a Darshana of the divine mother along with her consort Parameshwara. The temple complex is very huge and has some very unique idols. Every single idol in the very divine kshetra of Kodungalur Bhaghawathy Kshetra can induce an awe due to their sheer size. Bhagawathy in Kodungalur has 8 hands and blesses all her children who pray for every sort of well-being.
More details: https://kodungallursreekurumbabhagavathytemple.org/pages/history
Thiruvanchikulam Mahadeva Kshetra is one of the Padal Petra Sthalams from the sangam period. This temple houses many deities with the main presiding deity is Mahadeva. This kshetra has a very beautiful and serene temple which is quite huge and hosts many idols (probably from Chera / Chola era) which are being worshipped daily even today. One specific Moorthy that mesmerised me was that of Nataraja. What a magnificent idol !!!
Cheruman Perumal, the ancient legendary king of Kerala Desa is supposed to have visited Kailasa along with his friend, the famous Sundamoorthy Nayanar. There are specific idols dedicated to both these legendary giants of the past, along with some compositions in Tamil captured on the walls.
I would highly recommend asaktas to visit this kshetra if around this location.
More details: https://thiruvanchikulammahadevatemple.org/pages/view/mahadeva-temple-history
Thirumoozhikulam
The final destination of this discovery phase was the very famous and very unique Thirumoozhikulam, located just at the starting part of Ernakulam district. We reached this temple just in time for the afternoon Seyvelli, after which the temple is closed till afternoon. We were blessed to be part of this ritual following the holy steps of Perumal as he takes his routine journey across his dominion.
There are many legends associated with this divine kshetra tracing back to Lakshmana, the legendary brother of Sri Rama. Sri Krishnan, the head priest of this kshetra explained the various unique aspects of this kshetra tracing back to its origins. This kshetra is one of the 4 of the famous Naalambalams (4 temples) which are frequented by all bhaktas during Karkada masam (Aashad in other terminology - Solar Karkada masam falls between approximately mid July to mid August). Karkada masam is revered to be Ramayana maasam wherein Ramayana is recited in the evening every single day, at every single home / temple.
Apparently, the true origins of the Lakshmana Perumal is not widely known, but was finally shown through a divine vision facilitated by a dancing peacock and elephant. To commemorate this divine event, a separate sanctum is created for Ganapathi who is given the first Pooja.
Thirumoozhikulam is one of the 108 Divya deshams and is frequented by many travellers. There are many interesting anecdotes attached to this divine kshetra including the genesis of Sri Suktam. Lot more information can be found in the videos below. I would highly recommend asaktas to discuss with Sri Krishnan if there is an opportunity.
The idol is quite ancient and has been worshipped from Dwapara Yuga onwards. In modern history, Tipu Sultan’s army was responsible for some damages which have been rectified using Panchaloha by a king. The sight of Perumal was like nectar to a parched soul. A very divine kshetra.
Main Deity: Sri Lakshmana Perumal
Thayar: Madhuraveni
More Details: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7LT-1qrfiM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5GF21-Ab9wY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CotNKVezcwA
Apart from these specific journeys, I also visited Guruvayoor (my eternal favourite) and all my kuladevata temples and some famous temples like Ruthrakaali kaavu in Wadakanchery, culminating with the beautiful annual festival of Mullakkal Bhagwathy (Bharani).
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