One entire day soaked in the richness of our ancestors and the divinity and antiquity of some of the holiest places in the neighbourhood was just what I required on a Saturday. Originally planned for Wednesday, some unforeseen exigencies meant that the plan was pushed to Saturday. What a day it was !!!
Route Map
The overall route-map for the trip is as below:
We started from Bengaluru around 6.15 and reached Hoskote in decent time. After Hoskote, we faced severe fog which hampered visibility and meant that we had to travel at 10 kmph. The first destination of DoddaShivara meant that we took the newly constructed highway, which was a dream to drive on.
DoddaShivara
A beautiful kshetra nestled amidst vast lands of a village, DoddaShivara is the abode for Gangadhareshwara Swami as well as some Veeragallus (Hero Stones) hosted in the vicinity of the temple. In fact, I learnt about this place from a post from my good friend, Sri Swaminathan Natarajan, who is actively contributing extensively towards the identification and preservation of these priceless pieces from our past.
When we reached the kshetra around 7.45 am, we were treated to some beautiful sights of peacocks and a symphony of Parrots that have made the huge tree their abode. We also were under constant surveillance during our stay by our long lost ancestors (Monkeys), who were irritated that they were disturbed amidst their blissful nap. In spite of trying to wake up the poojari, we were unsuccessful and left the kshetra without having the darshana of the main deity. However, we were blessed to view a massive Shivalinga in a side altar which was open. Little did we know that the size would become a recurring theme for the rest of the day.
Antarganga Dakshina Kashi
While going towards Kolaramma kshetra, we stopped at a signal and I saw a direction board towards AntarGange. On a whim, we changed the plan and moved towards this place. After some curves, we reached the base of the hill leading up to the divine Kashi Vishwanatha Kshetra.
A point of caution: This area is filled with monkeys. Don’t carry anything in hand and preferably put into pockets. Food items specially will be attacked and snatched away. After a pretty decent climb (it’s not too flat and has some steep portions), we arrived at the main kshetra and a teertha adjoining that. The main temples also houses some wonderful Shivalingas (Pancha Lingas) of massive proportions. Apparently, the teertha coming into the Pushkarani has connections with Ganga.
After learning about the main kshetra and taking the Prasad offered, we had some pretty “interesting” experiences with monkeys. On our way down, we treated ourselves to some very cool and awesome buttermilk being sold by one of the locals. She told me that they all stay in the hills behind the temple and walks up 7 kms to reach her village. The buttermilk is produced from the milk given her cows. It was simply refreshing and enriching. Very highly recommended.
After trekking down, we stopped just before the junction at a Davangere Benne Dosa shop. The food was exquisite and we hogged to our tummy’s full.
Kolaramma - Kolar City
Next, we visited the main deity of main city Kolar i.e. Kolaramma. A beautiful temple whose walls have some very old writings in Tamil / Hale Kannada. It was not crowded and we could get the darshana quite easily.
One shouldn’t view Amma directly, but have her Darshana through the mirror placed. Please follow the instructions as provided by the Archakaru. The temple is filled with wall carvings of scorpions ornately decorated with Golden Kavachas. When we requested Archakaru to explain, he mentioned that Scorpion is the Vahana for Kolaramma. She is the presiding deity for all poisonous insects and animals. If one comes across a scorpion in house or field, they visit this place to take Amma’s blessings.
The temple also houses an idol of Raja Rajendra Chola proving the deep connection between this kshetra and Cholas. There was another Veeragallu which is also supposed to be related to Cholas.
Someshwara Temple - Kolar City
Very close to Kolaramma lies another hidden gem, Someshwara Temple. Beautifully constructed by the Vijayanagara Emperors, the temple has a beautiful Prakara along a wonderful mantapa as one approaches the sanctum Santorum. The pillars have some exquisite carvings, specially of Hanuman.
The shivalinga in this kshetra is a massive one (in accordance with the theme of this trip) making one just awed in his presence. Right next to the main deity is a wonderful Moorthi of Subramanya Swami with some wonderful features. A very divine place.
Ramalingeshwara Swami - Avani
From Kolaramma, we made our way to Avani which also houses one of the Sringeri peetas. We made our way to the old and divine Ramalingeshwara Swami kshetra.
This kshetra is considered to date back to Treta Yuga when Sri Rama himself installed the linga that is under worship today. Similar to previous experiences, Ramalingeshwara Swami is a massive Shivalinga. However, nothing could prepare us for the enormity of Lakshmana Lingeshwara swami. This ksehtra also hosts a Seeta Parvati Devi where Seeta Devi was supposed to have performed a vratha for pleasing Parvati Devi.
There are other lingas dedicated to Bharatha, Shatrugna, Vali and Sugreeva. The Dwajastambha has some very old markings which I am not sure has been deciphered. This is definitely one of my to-dos from this trip.
Close-by there is a place where Seetha Devi supposed to have become one (Ikya) with Bhoomi Devi. Since this involved another uphill trek, we avoided this and moved to our next destination.
Mulbagal Anjaneya Swami Temple
A very famous and extremely powerful kshetra is Anjaneya Swami temple in Mulbagal. This temple is supposed to trace its ancestry to 5000 years atleast, if not more. A massive Anjaneya Swami carved from a stone standing more than 10 feet (perhaps) with a regal moustache. After Gali Anjaneya in Bengaluru, this was the first Anjaneya swami with a moustache.
Adjoining this temple is another section hosting a very divine Venkateshwara Swami. Words are not enough to describe the beauty of this swami. When we exit, there is a golden lizard similar to the one in Kanchi.
Fun Fact:
Mulbagal comes from Mudala Bagilu - Eastern Door or Gateway. This place was considered as the eastern gateway to Vijayanagara empire of the past.
Ancient Virupaksha Swami Temple
One of the gems of our trip was to visit this lesser known, but massively important kshetra dedicated to Virupaksha Swami. The temple was reconstructed by Vijayanagara Kings, but the place itself traces back to Treta Yuga as explained kindly by the Archakaru.
This kshetra is considered to be Atri Kshetra dedicated to Atri Maharisihi (father of Dattatreya Swami). Apparently, there are 2 atmalingas given by Parameshwara. One of the atma lingas was given to Ravana which is now present in Gokarna. The other atma linga was present to Atri Maharishi which is installed here. This is the linga that is facing the Bhaktas. Contrary to other lingas, this was relatively smaller linga.
The unique aspect of this atmalinga is that it changes colour thrice in the day.
- Red (Raktha) in the morning
- White (Spatika) in the afternoon
- Honey (Madhu) in the evening.
Similar to the first rays of Sun falling on Gavi Gangadhareshwara Swami in Bengaluru on Sankrathi, first rays of the sun fall on Virupaksha Atma Linga on Shivarartri day.
A very highly recommended place to visit.
Kurudumale Lakshmi Ganapathi
Making our way to this very famous kshetra, we had to wait a little before the kshetra reopened. We were greeted to a massive Ganapathi idol from Saligram stone. When we enter close to the garbhagriha can we asses the enormity of swami. A very divine and peaceful place.
The Ganapati idol reminded me of Eachanari Ganapati from Coimbatore. I am not sure if there is any connection, but something to ponder upon.
Note: February 22 - there is butter alankara planned along with Annadana. One can contribute to these activities and also visit the kshetra and accept the Prasad.
Koladevi Garuda Kshetra
Another unexpected Gem from our trip. This is very close to Kurudumale Ganapati temple and is considered to be the only temple dedicated to Garuda who is carrying Narayana in one hand and Lakshmi Devi in other. Arshina (Turmeric) is considered akin to Narayana and Kumkuma (Vermillion) is considered to be Lakshmi.
Garuda swami has 8 nagas on his body, but one can view only one after full alankara. This kshetra was consecrated by Guru Ramanujacharya around 950 years algo. Visiting this place is considered to wash away any sins related to Sarpa Dosha and relief can be expected.
Uthanur Varadaraja Swami temple
We wished to visit this temple on our way back, but like the start of the day, we were greeted with a closed kshetra with no one in sight to make enquiries.
On our way back to Bengaluru, we reflect on the enormity of some idols, the timelessness of these deities, hearts filled with devotion and knowledge and a thirst to explore more.
Until the next adventure..
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