“Tena Vina Trunamapi Na Chalati” - Without his will, even a blade of grass can’t move. This phrase couldn’t be more truer than what I have endured in last 3 days. The best laid plans went completely haywire for reasons beyond one’s control and ultimately, one is left to accept and appreciate divine will. However, the mind is racing with unanswered questions and hopefully, I am able to find some answers and closure sometime soon. Amidst all these challenges, I had a one day trip to Madurai and visited some of the most divine temples in the region. I have already visited some of them in the past, but found some new unknown gems along the way.
We stayed in Gopuram Grand hotel which is bang opposite the west tower of the Meenakshi Amman temple. This was by far the best decision of this trip and definitely one of the better ones of my life. I highly recommend this hotel not just for the location, but for the excellent service and awesome food.
Disclaimer: This is not a paid promotion or anything. This is just pure genuine appreciation for a really good, well managed professional establishment.
Madurai Meenakshi Amman Temple
Owing to the advantage of the location, we woke up in the morning and joined the general queue around 5.00 am, which was a very interesting experience in its own right. I saw some wonderful people chanting all divine verses in unison, their Bhakti was overflowing through their words and pure devotion. I also saw some of the modern day parenting challenges (lesser said the better). Overall, the queue experience of 1 hour was quite enriching, but peaceful enough to chant whatever one wished to. When I came in front of the Devi, I was overwhelmed and speechless (more on this in a separate post). Being in her presence meant a lot and this was enough for me.
Next, we went to Sundareshwarar Swamy temple where we took the advantage of the quicker queue by paying a fee. Equally enchanting and divine experience awaited us as we were in the presence of the divine teacher.
While I have captured the main deities, there are other equally wonderful smaller shrines to Vinayagar (many different forms of my favourite deva), Subramanya swamy, Dakshinamoorthy, Lingodhbhava, Saraswati among many more. Of course, the figurines of the 63 Nayanmars, various Shiva lingas like Kashi Vishwanatha, Vishalakshi, Natarajar adorn the premises which makes for a truly fulfilling spiritual experience.
One point of note: No matter which temple, VIP passes are a norm for many to have a close encounter with the divine. Sometimes I wonder, do we humans forget that we are all equals in front of the almighty?
Thiruparankundram Murugan Temple
The first of the famous “Aaru Padai Veedu” or “Six abodes of Murugan” - This temple was in the news for various reasons for the past one year. Coincidentally, we were absolutely lucky to visit this kshetra on a sandwich day i.e. day between Panguni Uttaram and Kalyanotsavam. A very beautiful Murugan temple, we had an absolutely fantastic Darshana very close to the main deity (owing to the special Darshana queue). Subramanya Swamy looks very majestic and royal and blesses all his devotees with abundance. Of course, his brother, Bhagwan Ganesha is very next to him and is magnificent to say the least.
Pathinettampati Karupuswamy Temple, Azhagar Malai
This translates to 18 step Karupuswamy Temple, a very revered and powerful kshetra. For the time I spent in this temple and Azhar Kovil, I could observe many devotees getting into a trance (which is considered as Karuppan coming over their bodies). There is a fascinating story about the 18 steps involving a Malabar King and 18 Tantrik Nambhoothiris (Read more here: https://astroulagam.com.my/lifestyle/pathinettampadi-karuppanna-swamy-temple-guardian-alagar-malai-285585)
The main deity is closed behind a huge door which is adorned with multiple machetes (Aruvaal). However, to truly understand the enormity of the door, please do look at the machetes on the side. They are absolutely huge. If one imagines a person wielding those machetes, he would easily be more than 150 feet tall.
Thirumaliruncholai Kallalgar Temple - Azhagar Malai
One of the most widely worshipped and revered Divya Desham, Azhagar Koil is one of the most famous ksehtras in Madurai after Meenakshi Amman. Azhagar would be in the news soon for the Chitirai Thiruvila (Chitirai Festival). A magnificent Perumal welcomes all his children and provides the reassurance and blessings that all his devotees yearn for.
Thayar’s name is Sundaravalli and Swamy’s name is Kallalgar Perumal.
Pazhamudira Solai Murugan Temple - Solaimalai
The last of the famous “Aaru Padai Veedu), this temple is nestled atop a small hill amidst an army of monkey. A very divine temple, this was absolutely crowded (much like other temples). However, owing to the special ticket (yet again), we could have a very divine and soul filling darshana of Subramanya swamy with his consorts Valli and Devayani. As one enters the temple premises, please do look a very special dedicated shrine for Vel (spear) which is the ayudha (weapon) of Subramanya Swamy.
Rakhaayee Amman Temple - Solaimalai
A little down the same road from Pazhamudira Solai, lies a gem of a temple, Rakhaayee Amman Kovil. This is one of my most favourite temples in Madurai circuit and try to make it a point to visit this temple every time I am in this vicinity. This temple is dedicated to the divine mother of the universe, Rakhayee Amman. However, the main attraction of this temple is the natural spring that comes from the feet of Thayar. One can have prokshane (sprinkling) or get fully wet from this spring. Many of us bring this water back home for medicinal and divine purposes. Drinking this water is so sweet and fills the soul with satisfaction. I got fully wet and had darshan of Amman in wet clothes.
This is where some of the unknowns of this trip haunt me. We collected the water in a can, kept it safe and transferred to a steel bottle to be carried back in the flight. Until we reached Bengaluru, we safe guarded this water, but forgot to pick up the bottle when we deboarded. I really wonder why we landed up forgetting this divine Prasada. Quite hurting ..
Thirumogur Kalamegha Perumal
Another Divya Desham closer to the main Madurai city, this is a very divine kshetra blessed with an equally beautiful teertha. Since we were waiting for the temple to open for the evening, we spent an hour around this teertha watching small kids swimming to their hearts content. The recently concluded Tepotsavam which included a raft to carry the divine was still on the banks, being dismantled.
When the temple opened its doors, we were the first ones and almost the only ones apart from some workers and the priest. Bhagwan is towering at 9 feet or so, flanked by his consorts Sreedevi and Bhoodevi. This kshetra is considered to be the site where Bhagwan Vishnu took Mohini avatara to defeat Bhasmaasura and another one related to the Samudra Manthana. Swamy is considered to have a slightly feminine look, but is quite majestic. We really feel that we are just trunas in front of the opulence and majestic presence of Bhagwan.
Thiruvathuvur Thirumarainathar Kshetra
This temple was recommended by our driver for the day. Thiruvathuvur is the birth place of saint Manickavasagar, one of the 4 Nalvars i.e. 4 prominent saiva saints along with Appar, Sundarar and Sambandhar. While there is a small dedicated temple near the birth place of this divine saint, the main attraction is the majestic Shiva kshetra in this place, a little distance away from Thirumogur.
The temple houses a very huge Shivalinga as the main deity. When we reached the temple, Abhisheka had been just completed and we were blessed to be part of the first Pooja after the alankara. A very serene and beautiful temple with an expansive temple complex.
Narasingampatti Narasimhaswamy - Gajagiri
Nestled amongst the backdrop of the Yanaimalai (Elephant Hill) is the very divine Narasimha swamy kshetra. Deriving its name from the Sanskrit words for Elephant (Gaja) and Hill (Giri), GajaGiri ksehtra houses one of the most divine Narasimha swamy temples I have visited. As one enters the kshetra, there is Thayar sannidhi. As one enters the main sanctum sanctorum, first we are blessed by the Utsava Murthy of the main deity. When we enter the main inner sanctum, we come face to face with a magnificent, huge Narasimha swamy in his yogic posture. Fierce, yet reassuring, Swami’s presence is awe inspiring and an experience to behold. I presume this is Swayambhu from the rock of the mountain of which it’s a part of (I guess so!).
There were some inscriptions in Tamil, but I didn’t wish to take photos as it was closer to the main sanctum.
Immayil Nanmai Tharuvar - Madurai
As we travelled back to our hotel, this was one more suggestion from our driver, which was the last temple we visited for the day. The name translates to “One who bestows reassurance amidst duress”. This very beautiful Shiva kshetra is nestled amidst the main business centres of Madurai and is quite an approach. The presiding deity is Mahadeva. However, what’s unique about this place is the form of the main deity. Apart from the main Shivalinga, there are 2 human like figures of Shiva and Parvati blessing all their devotees, who approach with some prayer or requests with the challenges of life.
An extremely beautiful and expansive temple, this is a must visit spot during the next trip. As I wind down the visit, I can’t help, but reflect on the beauty of the devotion and dedication of the priests of the place. Small temples nestled among shops or along the road side are worshipped with same fervour and intensity as the main kshetras. Such selfless dedication to the service of the almighty keeps our Bharathavarsha safe and sound. Blessed to be born in this Pavitra bhoomi.
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